This is the same 1995 Monte Carlo used in the compression test post. In the last 10-15 years General Motors vehicles have kept the same drive belt design on the V6 engines. Why change a good thing if it works? From the cars to vans the amount of room may vary, but the routing and spring type tensioner is the same. When changing the belt and tensioner the procedure will not change.

Reasons for Replacement

Belts wear and need to be changed due to visible cracks and possible breakage of the belt or they become noisy from drying out due to age. The tensioners can fail from the bearings in the roller wearing out and becoming extremely noisy or locking up. The spring mechanism can also come apart and cause the belt to jump off the pulleys. Either way, they both can be repaired/replaced.

Tools to be Used

• 3/8″ long handle ratchet
• 13mm socket

Visual Inspection

Here is a belt and tensioner assembly. The belt tension is applied automatically by the spring inside the tensioner and no adjustments are needed. This is how the manufacture designed this type of system.

Take note of the routing the belt takes around each pulley for installation before you remove the old belt.

In order to remove the belt, the spring tension must be released.

Here at the end of the roller there is a 3/8″ square flange designed for a ratchet to aid in belt removal.

Here’s a better look at the tensioner through a mirror.

Belt Removal

Install ratchet into tensioner

Pull tensioner counter clockwise enough to remove belt from top pulley groove.

Trace the belt routing on a piece of paper or look for a diagram on the car. This is to help you remember the route when installing the new belt.

Remove the old belt from pulleys.

Remove Tensioner

Remove the 13mm bolt holding the tensioner to the engine.

Here’s a better look at the tensioner and ratchet off the car.

Estimate for Repair

(check with your local parts stores for current prices)
Parts to replace
Drive belt – If needed, approximately $15-$40 (depending on brand)
Belt tensioner – tensioner w/pulley, $52
Belt pulley – pulley only, approximately $25
Total parts for belt and tensioner assy. from your local parts store, $92 plus tax
Labor to replace
If paid to have replaced approximately 1 hr. labor ($80)
Parts and Labor
Total parts and labor, $172

Time to replace – a realistic amount of time depends on the type of vehicle with this engine.
Worst case scenario, 45 minutes.
Best case scenario, 15 minutes

Steering Pump

Alternator

Waterpump

Air Conditioning Compressor

Today’s vehicles usually have one of two types of drive belts.

V-Belt

Serpentine Belt

When checking the engine drive belts, you are going to look for two things with your inspection.

Look for the proper belt tension and look for any sign of wear. (Cracks, frayed edges, or glazed back side of the belt)

Worn belts (cracks and glazed present)

Good results for drive belts should be as follows:

Visual – No glazing or shiny areas on the back side of the belts, and no dry cracks on the pulley side or between the ribs of the belt. If you can read the brand name on the belt and its not squeeling then it’s probably not loose.

Tension – Should be able to twist no more than 1/4 of a turn on either type of belt.

Good condition (see writing on belt)

Good belt tension 1/4 turn

Recommendations:

Even though adjustments and or replacement should be performed by a reputable and certified repair shop, being aware of your belt condition can prevent you from being stranded if the belt breaks or causing a problem like loosing the power steering or charging system from a loose belt that could be repaired by a simple belt adjustment.