Reasons for Replacing

The first thought that you might have a problem with your starter would be the fact that your car either cranks slow with no loss of other electrical consumers or it becomes noisy when turning the key to start the engine. As starters age they become very tired, just as you will when you get older.

The amount of electricity that passes through a starter in it’s lifetime is amazing. A known good starter draws about 150-200 amps during cranking. When they wear out they begin to increase the amount of amperage by 2 to 3 times(400-600 amps), assuming that the battery can handle it. Think about the number of times you turn the key on your car every day, year, or decade. Chances are, if you’ve owned a car longer than 10 years then you’ve had a starter fail or give you problems at some point during that time. If not, then your on borrowed time.

Starter Testing

If your starter is drawing a large amount of current, refer to the Battery, Starter, and Alternator Testing to learn how to perform a test and read the results for the starter current draw.

Starter Recommendations

From my observation over the years, I truly believe the factory starters that originally come on your car are the best and longest lasting starters ever. Regardless of the manufacture. Yes you can go and get an aftermarket re-manufactured starter for 1/3 the cost of a factory starter, but they do not last as long. Look at it this way, if you really like the car and plan on keeping it for a long time use a factory starter. If it’s a car that you just want to get rid of, save yourself the expense of a factory starter and buy an aftermarket one.

Difficulty Scale

This is an advanced skill level job. It requires access from under the vehicle when removing the starter and it’s mounting bolts.

Tools for the Job

• 1/4″ ratchet
• 5/16″ socket
• 3.8″ drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 3/8″ extension 12″ long
• 10mm wrench
• 13mm wrench

Prep for Starter Removal

Locate the starter to be removed. Once again the subject being worked on is a 1995 Monte Carlo with a 3.1 liter V6 engine. Even with very little access, the starter is only held on with 2 mounting bolts, 1 trim cover, and 2 nuts for the wiring.

The starter is located toward the front of the vehicle close to the bottom of the engine.

Note: If you don’t have an automotive lift for accessing removal of the starter, refer to the How to use a jack and stands article for helpful knowledge on using a jack and stands to aid in the replacement of the starter.

Considering that we are working with a component that is wired directly to the battery, the first and most important thing to do is to disconnect the battery before servicing the starter.

All side post batteries have a 5/16″ or 8mm socket size to remove the battery cable.

Important Electrical Caution!!!

Always remember, when disconnecting the battery remove the negative terminal/ground cable first!!! This is to prevent any possible contact with surrounding grounds.

If you touch a ground no problems can occur if your removing the ground cable. On the other hand, if you contact a ground while removing the positive of a live battery you can short circuit the battery and do significant damage to the vehicles electrical system.

Removing the Starter

After disconnecting the battery, use the 13mm wrench to loosen and remove the nut holding the battery positive cable to the starter.

Remember that if the battery was not disconnected this would be a live wire and could short to ground if inadvertently touched when replacing.

Use the 5/16″ socket with ratchet to remove the S terminal wire from the starter.

After jacking up and supporting the vehicle, now is when you need to access the starter from underneath the car. Once under the car locate the starter bolt cover.

Using a 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the cover hold down bolt. This will allow access to the main starter mounting bolts.

Remove the front starter bolt with the 13mm socket, extension, and ratchet.

Remove the rear starter mounting bolt.

Be prepared to support the starter when removing the last bolt. Now the starter just need to be removed.

Noisy Starters Take Note:

Whether the starter that you are replacing was making a loud grinding noise or not, it’s always wise to check the teeth on the flywheel for wear.

Before you install the new starter, check the flywheel teeth where the starter mates up to for turning the engine.

Rotate the engine from the front crank bolt while watching the flywheel teeth looking for any shiny or worn spots. Most of the time when the starter makes a grinding noise it’s damaging the flywheel teeth when they mesh.

By carefully looking at all of the teeth you can make sure that no damage is present that could cause damage to the new starter. Worn flywheel teeth can damage and/or shorten the life of the new starter.

The down side to needing a flywheel is that the transmission will need to be removed for access to replacing the flywheel. Yet another post that will soon come.

Re install the new starter in reverse order and re-test using the Battery, Starter, and Alternator Testing post to test the new starter for proper operation.

Estimate for Repair

(check with your local parts stores for current prices)
Parts to replace
Using aftermarket parts you can purchase a remanufactured starter for around $90. New starters around $200.
Labor to replace
This job should cost approximately .5 hr. labor to test the starting system and 1.5 hrs. to replace the starter assembly. (Example: 2hrs.@ $80)
Parts and Labor
Re-man price/ $250
New price/ $360
Note: Factory parts and shop labor rates will be higher depending on type of repair shop and location.
Time to replace
This job should take an experienced technician approximately 1.5 hours to complete

Reasons for Replacement

A majority of the time when an alternator fails, it stops charging and the battery goes dead. Other times the alternator over charges and cooks the battery. For testing and evaluating of the battery, starting, and charging system refer to the Battery, Starter, and Alternator Testing post to help with diagnosis.

Difficulty Scale

This job may not be time consuming, but there are a few steps that are critical when replacing an alternator. This skill level is more for the advanced level technician. Follow along and learn these important steps.

Tools for the Job

• 1/4″ ratchet
• 5/16″ socket
• 3/8″ ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8″ extension 6″ long

Prep for Alternator Removal

Always evaluate the job before starting. Here is a view of the alternator on the left. There are 2 mounting bolts, 1 corner bracket, 1 plugin style connector, 1 nut holding the B+ wire from the battery, and the belt.

Considering that we are working with the heart of the electrical system, the first and most important thing to do is to disconnect the battery before servicing the alternator.

All side post batteries have a 5/16″ or 8mm socket size to remove the battery cable.

Important Electrical Caution!!!

Always remember, when disconnecting the battery remove the negative terminal/ground cable first!!! This is to prevent any possible contact with surrounding grounds.

If you touch a ground no problems can occur if your removing the ground cable. On the other hand, if you contact a ground while removing the positive of a live battery you can short circuit the battery and do significant damage to the vehicles electrical system.

Note: Refer to the Replacing a Serpentine Belt and Tensioner post for how to remove the belt prior to servicing the alternator.

Alternator Removal

Using your ratchet and 15mm socket, remove the upper alternator mounting bolt.

Using the 13mm socket with extension, remove the nut and the alternator support bracket from the corner of the intake manifold.

Remove the lower alternator mounting bolt.

Pull back the protective boot and remove the nut for the battery cable. This is the cable that supplies voltage to the battery when the vehicle is running.

Remove the battery cable. This is why you should disconnect the battery. Eliminate the thought of your wrench touching a ground when removing the B+ cable from the alternator.

Lift out the alternator for removal, but be aware that there is still one more wire to disconnect. The only way to reach the connector is to lift out the alternator for access.

Unplug the 2 terminal connector. This is the power and ground wires that supply the alternators voltage regulator. (More on how the alternator works later)

Install the new alternator in reverse order and retest the charging system to make sure the new alternator is working correctly.
Refer to the Battery, Starter, and Alternator Testing post for a recap on how to check for proper operation of the alternator.

Estimate for Repair

(check with your local parts stores for current prices)
Parts to replace
Using aftermarket parts you can purchase a remanufactured alternator for around $80 and a new alternator for approx. $120.
Labor to replace
This job should cost approx. 2 hr. labor to test the charging system and replace the alternator. (Example: 2hrs.@ $80)
Parts and Labor
Re-man price/ $240
New price/ $280
Note: Factory parts and shop labor rates will be higher depending on type of repair shop and location.
Time to replace
This job should take even the experienced technician approx. 1 to 1.5 hours to complete

This is the same 1995 Monte Carlo used in the compression test post. In the last 10-15 years General Motors vehicles have kept the same drive belt design on the V6 engines. Why change a good thing if it works? From the cars to vans the amount of room may vary, but the routing and spring type tensioner is the same. When changing the belt and tensioner the procedure will not change.

Reasons for Replacement

Belts wear and need to be changed due to visible cracks and possible breakage of the belt or they become noisy from drying out due to age. The tensioners can fail from the bearings in the roller wearing out and becoming extremely noisy or locking up. The spring mechanism can also come apart and cause the belt to jump off the pulleys. Either way, they both can be repaired/replaced.

Tools to be Used

• 3/8″ long handle ratchet
• 13mm socket

Visual Inspection

Here is a belt and tensioner assembly. The belt tension is applied automatically by the spring inside the tensioner and no adjustments are needed. This is how the manufacture designed this type of system.

Take note of the routing the belt takes around each pulley for installation before you remove the old belt.

In order to remove the belt, the spring tension must be released.

Here at the end of the roller there is a 3/8″ square flange designed for a ratchet to aid in belt removal.

Here’s a better look at the tensioner through a mirror.

Belt Removal

Install ratchet into tensioner

Pull tensioner counter clockwise enough to remove belt from top pulley groove.

Trace the belt routing on a piece of paper or look for a diagram on the car. This is to help you remember the route when installing the new belt.

Remove the old belt from pulleys.

Remove Tensioner

Remove the 13mm bolt holding the tensioner to the engine.

Here’s a better look at the tensioner and ratchet off the car.

Estimate for Repair

(check with your local parts stores for current prices)
Parts to replace
Drive belt – If needed, approximately $15-$40 (depending on brand)
Belt tensioner – tensioner w/pulley, $52
Belt pulley – pulley only, approximately $25
Total parts for belt and tensioner assy. from your local parts store, $92 plus tax
Labor to replace
If paid to have replaced approximately 1 hr. labor ($80)
Parts and Labor
Total parts and labor, $172

Time to replace – a realistic amount of time depends on the type of vehicle with this engine.
Worst case scenario, 45 minutes.
Best case scenario, 15 minutes

What you’ll need for this fix / car repair tutorial

You will need the following new parts and tools to perform this repair;

• 1-Blower Motor Resistor
• 1/4″ nut driver
• 7/32″ socket
• 1/4″ universal/wobble

With a short explanation and basic understanding of electrical functions in the automotive world, you can understand how and why these parts fail for future reference. The car being used in this article, is a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

Price Comparison – How much you can save

Repair shop pricing
Parts-approx.$60
Labor to diagnose 1 hour($80), labor to repair 1 hour($80)
Total cost-$220 plus tax

Do it yourself
Parts-$30 (from your local parts store)
Estimate time to repair, approx 30 min to 1 hour
Total cost-$30 plus tax

Step 1 – Identify the problem

Lets start with speed number 5.

The battery voltage is at full potential when you switch it to speed #5 (approx-12.5 volts). In this position the blower motor runs at high speed as fast as it can.

Reference Note

For a better understanding of electrical diagrams you can refer to automotive electrical theory in Automotive Electrical 101 – Part 1

Follow the silver line through the wiring schematic. This is the path that the voltage is traveling through setting #5/high speed.

When switching to speed #4 the voltage goes through a resistor before reaching the blower motor. This resistor takes away approximately 2 volts. Now with 10.5 volts supplied to the blower motor, it runs at a little bit slower pace. It blows fast, but noticeably slower than speed #5.

Note:This illustration is a 4 speed blower circuit. The point is to show you how the speeds are controlled by resistors.

Speed #3 adds one more resistor in series for the circuit. Now take away 2 more volts. Now the blower motor is running at 8.5 volts. Each speed is supplied with a smaller amount of voltage, thus allowing the blower motor to slow down.

Speed #2 and speed #1 work on the same principle.

If you take a circuit and put a resistor in the path of current flow, you will restrict the path, only allowing a certain amount of voltage and current to be supplied to that load device. In this case, the blower motor is our load device. Now you can see that when a blower motor resistor goes bad, you can lose your lower speeds and still have the highest setting.This should give you an understanding of how the voltage is controlled in a blower motor circuit.

Locating the Resistor

GM usually puts the blower motor and resistor next to each other. Nine times out of ten, both of them are accessible from inside the car. The blower motor and resistor in this Grand Am are mounted in the bottom of the heater box in the passenger footwell area.

Start by removing the lower trim under the glovebox.

The attaching screws can be removed with a nut driver and a 7/32″ socket.

Once the 2 screws are removed, pull out the panel.

Note: The only tools needed for this job is the 1/4″ nut driver, 7/32″ socket, a 1/4″ universal/wobble socket, and a light to help see the work area.

Position the passenger seat as far back as possible. This will allow you enough room to lay in the floor area to see and work while replacing the resistor.

Here is the view with the panel removed. The round component is one end of the blower motor.

The black and blue electrical connector behind the motor is where the resistor is located.

In order to access removing the resistor, the blower motor will have to be removed first.

Replacing the Blower Resistor

The alarm module will need to be removed. Pushing the module to the right allows it to slide out of it’s bracket.

Don’t bother unplugging the module, there’s enough room to work around it hanging down.

Remove the 3 hold down screws.

Use the same nut driver and socket, but add the wobble attachment.

With the blower motor screws removed, pull the motor straight down for removal. Be cautious not to pull the motor to the side until the blower cage clears the housing. This is to prevent damage to the cage assembly.

Unplug the blower resistor

Remove the resistor mounting screws.

Pull out the old resistor.

Here is what a blower resistor looks like.

Compare the old resistor with the new one to make sure they look alike.

Compare the electrical terminals also, and make sure they are identical.

Install the new resistor and screws.

Plug in the resistor.

Reinstall the blower motor.

Be sure to test the operation of all the blower speeds before reassembling the lower trim.

If you need help locating and pricing parts for your own car refer to Locating a good source to purchase parts

What you need to perform a rear brake job/repair

You will need the following parts and tools to perform this repair;

• 1-Brake shoe kit
• 2-Wheel cylinders
• 1-Hardware spring kit
• 1-Can of brake clean
• High temp brake lube
• 1-Bottle of brake fluid
• 1-Can of PB blaster
• 2-Brake spring tools
• 1-Wire brush
• 1-5/16″ bleeder wrench
• 1-Flat blade/standard screw driver
• 1- 3/8″ Ratchet
• 1-3″” extension
• 1-10mm socket

Price comparison

Do it yourself-2-Drums $40 each
1-Brake shoe kit $25
2-Wheel cylinders $13 each
1-Hardware spring kit $12
1-Brake fluid $4
Total = $147 in parts (plus tax)

Repair shop cost -$298 in parts
$240 in labor (3 hrs @ $80 per hr)
total=$538 plus tax

Important! Prepare the Vehicle for Brake Repair

For help with jacking up a vehicle and removing the wheels refer to the following posts;

Note: refer to How to use a jack and jack stands
Note: refer to Remove and install a wheel

Let’s get started on the rear drum brakes

Remove the rear drum from the axle/hub assembly.

Sometimes rear drums can rust onto the hub and extra force may be needed to remove them.

Here is the rear drum assembly with the drum removed.

In this case the customer concern is, the brakes pulse when applied at highway speeds and a vibration is coming from the rear of the vehicle.

Scenario for brake pulse

When movable brake parts age and are exposed to a variety of weather conditions rust becomes a big factor in shortening the life of these parts.
Parts that would normally move become seized and the brakes stay partially applied causing them to heat up and warp the drums. This results in premature wear and brake failure. This brake pulsation is a common occurrence for drum style brakes.
Brake drums can be machined to eliminate an out of round shape from brakes staying engaged and warping the drums. It’s more cost effective and less time consuming to replace the drums especially for the do it yourself type person.

How brakes work

If you need a break down of how automotive brakes work, refer to Automotive Braking Systems 101-Part 1

Evaluation of the brakes

The hydraulic portion of these brakes has a leak. Although it’s not a severe leak, it’s still a leak. This leak could fail with a complete and total loss of the brakes.

It’s a good thing this brake concern lead to an inspection and found this problem before it left the customer stranded or caused an accident.

Parts to Replace

Here is an itemized list of needed parts to repair this job.

• 2-Rear brake drums
• 1-Rear brake shoe kit
• 2- Rear wheel cylinders
• 1 -Spring hardware kit
• 1 –Bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid

Tear Down

Here are a few tools that are much needed to perform this job.

These are all spring removal tools which I will show you how to use through out this post.

Start by using this aerosol brake spray cleaner to help remove any brake dust that can become airborne and inhaled.

Make sure to use a suitable fluid catch/drain pan for the job.

Don’t forget to wear your safety glasses!

Once this is cleaned, start by removing the brake shoes. Remove the hold down springs and retainers.

Remove the emergency brake adjuster spring and lock.

Remove the lower spring that connects both shoes together.

Pull out the lower emergency brake pivot bar.

Remove the upper spring that connects both shoes.

Pull out the front brake shoe.

Pull out the threaded brake shoe adjuster.

When removing the rear shoe, the emergency brake cable will need to be detached from the pivot arm.

Pull the cable out of the pivot arm and remove the rear shoe.

Clean the backing plate with a wire brush

Here’s a helpful spray to use when removing bolts and brake lines to prevent damaging these components.

PB blaster is the best penetrating spray to use on rusty parts.

There are 2 hold down bolts and 1 fluid line to the brake wheel cylinders that need to be sprayed.

After spraying, start by loosening the brake line and removing the two 10 mm wheel cylinder mounting bolts.

Note:

Sometimes these brake lines are seized. To prevent braking the line and having to replace or repair the hydraulic line, you can perform this old trick that I picked up years ago.

Pull the wheel cylinder towards you. This allows you to unscrew or spin the wheel cylinder counter clockwise for removal to avoid breaking the line.

Remove the old leaking wheel cylinder.

Prepare to install wheel cylinder

Now that this is done, prepare to install the new wheel cylinder.

Loosen the bleeder screw before installation. This allows the fluid to fill up and prevent air locking the wheel cylinder when installing the brake shoes.
Install the wheel cylinder and tighten the mounting bolts.

Once installed, close the bleeder screw. Lube the six backing plate contact points where the brake shoes contact when installed.

This will allow the shoes to properly slide with no friction, hanging up, or squeaking noises.

Use a special brake lube or anti-seize for any place where metal parts rub together.

Installing the Brake Shoes

Here you will have to transfer over the necessary parts that operate the emergency brake. (Each shoe has a part to switch over) The forward shoe has a bracket that pivots.

Remove the E-clip, lube and install into the new brake shoe.

Here’s a scary find that I found during this brake job. The emergency brake parts were seized up and wouldn’t have worked if the emergency brake was used. With a leaking wheel cylinder, this vehicle was on borrowed time.

When purchasing the brake parts, make sure to get a spring kit. The old springs get weak and could break if reused. The cost is minimal and will prevent future problems.

Switch over the pulling arm from the old shoe to the new rear brake shoe and lube with grease to allow a smooth operation when applied.

Assemble the rear brake shoe and install new springs.

Lube and screw the brake adjuster inward for installation.

Install the adjuster between the shoes.

Install the spring that holds the adjuster in place.

Install the adjuster lock and spring.

Note:

If you forget or have difficulty remembering exactly where all the springs go, use the opposite side as a mirror image. This is why it’s good to only tear down one side at a time.

Install the lower emergency brake pivot bar

Install the holding spring and recheck or compare to the opposite side for proper fit.

After finishing the assembly of the rear brakes, use brake clean on a shop rag to remove the grease that might have inadvertently got on the shoes while handling during installation.

Clean the new brake drum as well. When stored at the parts store they are lightly oiled to prevent rust from forming on the metal surface.

Slide the drum in place and check for a slight amount of drag.

Note:

The adjuster can be turned manually to increase the drag when turning by hand. A good rule of thumb is to pump the brakes with the drum installed then turn the drum by hand and there should be very little effort.
When driving and operating the brakes, they are designed to self adjust as they wear in upon daily driving.

Bleeding the brakes

There are a few ways to bleed out the trapped air from the hydraulic brakes.

The first is to use a vacuum type evacuator like this standup model.

Install the hose and pump the handle. Open the bleeder screw and a vacuum will pull the fluid through the system eliminating any air that might be trapped.

The second is to use a hand held vacuum pump which operates just like the larger model.

The third way is to have someone pump and hold the brake pedal while you open and reclose the bleeder screw letting out the trapped air. Be sure to keep the brake fluid topped up when bleeding the hydraulic system and use the brake clean spray and shop rags to clean up spilt brake fluid.

Test the emergency brake for proper operation and make sure they don’t stay applied. Reinstall the wheels, torque the lug nuts, and perform your test drive.

Note:

Most brakes will take approximately 50 to 100 miles to fully seat in. For the most part, they should feel like new brakes right away.

This repair was on a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. Use this repair as an opportunity to also see that looks can be deceiving especially when purchasing a used car.

This is a one owner vehicle with 85,000 miles and very clean inside and out. The customer concern is a vibration and shimmy from the rear of the vehicle at highway speeds.

Upon removing the wheel you can immediately see where the problem is.

The left rear trailing arm is completely broken in two pieces.

What could happen?

This is an accident waiting to happen. On dry pavement it would have a wandering feel from the rear and severe tire wear or tire damage if not caught in time. With rain or snow conditions this could be more severe with over steering of the car and you could lose control possibly causing an accident.

Parts

These parts are only available from your local General Motors dealership.

The aftermarket parts suppliers don’t show a listing on this part.

Jack up, support the vehicle, and remove the wheel.

Note: Refer to the “Helpful knowledge section” for supporting article to help you with this job. You will need to know about removing and installing a wheel and how to use a jack and jack stands.

Check to make sure the arms are the correct size and length before removing from the car.

There are only two bolts and two clips holding the arms onto the vehicle.

Remove the rear bolt using a breaker bar with a 24mm socket and wrench to hold.

Remove the 2 spring clips that attach the ABS wheel speed sensor harness from the arm.

The front mounting bolt is 19mm

Break the bolt loose and remove it from the front arm.

Remove the arm from the vehicle

Once the arm is removed, you can really see how corroded they get from exposure to road salt.

This is what winter weather does to this type of car over a period of 13 years in Indiana.

Here’s a closer look at the broken arm

Start by installing the front part of the arm into the body mount

Then install and draw up snug, but do not tighten the front nut and bolt until both ends are installed. This will allow for easy movement of the arm when installing the other bolt.

Swing the arm into place and line up the bolt hole

Install the rear nut and bolt. Now you can tighten both ends.

The arm is marked with an X where the harness clips attach

This is what a properly routed harness looks like.

If the clips are broken or rusted through, obtain new clips from the dealer or tie wrap out of the way to prevent damage to the harness. If damage occurs to this harness the ABS warning light will come on and the left rear speed sensor will not register.

Estimate

When replacing trailing arms in such bad condition like these were, I would recommend to replace both arms, even if only one is broke because the other arm is aged the same and is not far from braking as well. To replace the trailing arms it took approximately 30 to 45 minutes per side. Some of the rust may fight you during replacement. My recommendation is to use PB blaster penetrating oil to help with freeing up the rusty nuts and bolts.

Comparison Pricing

Do it yourself repair
2 arms approx. $150

Repaired at a shop
$440 plus tax
2 arms approx. $200 or more with a labor charge of 1 1/2hours per side @ $80 per hour for shop labor.

If you know how to change your oil already, and are just curious about how much money you can save by changing it yourself, jump to the end of this ‘How to change your own oil and filter’ post to see the price breakdown.

Let’s Begin

The vehicle we will be using for this example is a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu with a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder engine.

Locate where to fill and check the oil. If you aren’t sure where to look, you might read the ‘How to check and add engine oil‘ post first to give yourself a general idea.

The oil fill cap shows the type of oil recommended.

Locate the oil filter housing.

Loosen the oil filter housing to access the filter insert.

This allows the oil inside the housing to drain into the oil pan.

Pull to remove the filter off of the lid. Push to snap the new filter insert into the lid.

Replace the oil seal and lube with oil before installing.

Install the new filter/lid into the housing.

Secure the lid and tighten.

Use a suitable drain pan to catch the old oil when draining.

When needing to access more space under the vehicle for draining the oil, visit the post entitled ‘How to use a jack and jack stands‘ for extra help.

Locate the oil drain plug. Determine the socket size used to remove the oil drain plug. This particular plug uses a 15mm socket.

Once loose, spin the oil plug out with your fingers.

Use caution when removing the oil plug from a hot engine!! Either use some protective gloves or let the engine cool down for two hours before changing the oil.

Next, you’ll want to check the oil seal on the drain plug.

This seal is part of the plug, most are replaceable. Drain the oil for at least 5 minutes then install drain plug.

Clean the plug area so you can observe for leaks when done. (A good cleaner to use is called ‘Brake Clean‘, it’s high alcohol content will cut through oil.)

Remove the oil fill cap, and use a funnel.

Many times the top of the oil cap will note which oil is recommended, in this case it is 5W-30 so make sure to use only this type of oil.

Use the owner’s manual to find the oil fill capacity.

If you don’t have an owner’s manual to refer to your best alternative is to start by adding 4 quarts and then periodically checking and adding more oil in small increments. Once you’re finished, don’t forget to tighten down the oil fill cap.

Start the engine and let it run for 10-15 seconds, this allows the oil filter to fill up.

Another way to monitor start up is to watch the oil light, when first started the oil light will stay lit until the filter fills up. This is normal, but should go out after 10-15 seconds.

Locate the dip stick to check the oil level. If you aren’t sure what the proper oil level should be, you can always refer back to the same post reference above entitled ‘How to check and add engine oil‘

Make sure not to over fill, keep the level between the min. and max. mark on the dip stick.

Now that you’ve ran the car a little bit, look back underneath the hood and check both the oil drain for leaks;

and the filter housing for leaks.

As a reminder to yourself, use an oil sticker on the inside of your windshield to show when the next oil change is due. (You can ask for oil stickers when purchasing your parts, they’re free)

A good guide line to use for oil change intervals is every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

Recycling
When you’re done with the oil change you will need to dispose of the old oil. Here’s a connection to use for recycling your old oil and being environmentally friendly.

Summarizing the oil / filter change

We hope you found this post helpful and interesting. Every car varies a little bit, but not much, when it comes to changing the oil and the filter. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below. If you need specific help on your vehicle, or would like to see us change the oil on a particular make and model, make sure to drop us a line at autoknowblog@gmail.com.

Your cost comparison – Shop vs. Do it yourself

Cost at a repair shop
$29.95 to $49.95

Cost to do it yourself
Cost to do it yourself $15.99 for oil and filter

You Save
$15-$30.00

This article will show you how to diagnose and replace front brake pads and rotors. I will also give recommendations on some little tricks here and there that will help with making the repair a long lasting repair.

If you know how to change your brakes already, and are just curious about how much money you can save by changing them yourself, jump to the end of this ‘Replace front brake pads and rotors’ post to see the price breakdown.

Let’s Begin

The repair begins here with the vehicle jacked up, supported on jack stands and the wheels removed. Don’t know anything about jacking up your car, check out our How to use a jack and jack stands tutorial.

This is a 2000 Mercury Villager front disc brake view with vented rotors

The reason for replacing the pads and rotors on this vehicle is because of a brake pulse or vibration when applying the brakes at highway speeds, and the pads have been on this vehicle for 72,000 miles, Wow!

This tool allows you to do a comparison of the brake pad thickness – From 8 to 12mm green or good , from 4 to 6mm yellow or caution! (breaks at or below 50%), and from 2 to 3mm red or warning!! (less than 20% remaining).

I’ve had customers ask, why would you replace brakes that have 20% remaining? I always answer their question with a question, would you drive your kids around with little to no brakes left on your car?

But I want to get my money’s worth!

Some people look at it as, when the brakes wear down into the metal then I’ll replace them, I want to get my money’s worth.

Here’s the difference between 3mm and 12mm pad thickness.

If you were to replace the pads between 4 and 6mm, chances are that you might save warping the rotors because the pads help to dissipate the heat form the rotor with thicker pads.

If the pads are 2 to 3mm, the heat transfers quicker into the metal backing of the pad which retains heat causing hot spots on the rotors causing them to warp. The brakes also take a longer time or distance to stop, which can increase the odds of having an accident when needing to stop in a hurry.

This is not a tool that most technicians use due to the fact that most people in this business have an eye for break wear and can make an estimate knowing “good from bad”. But it serves the illustration well and gives you an idea of what a safe brake pad thickness is.

Time to change the brake pads

The photo on the left is what a disc brake assembly looks like with the wheel removed. Notice the bolt holes used for removing the rotor from the hub.

The first part to remove is the brake caliper. There are two mounting bolts that take a T-35 torx socket to remove.

After removing the bolts pry the caliper off the rotor and secure out of the work area. (Use wire to tie onto the shock or lay on top of the rotor backing plate)

Note: Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose, or damage to the hose may occur!!

The bolts used to remove the rotors are 8mm x 1.25mm.

Tighten down evenly until the rotor separates from the hub and remove the rotor.
Use a brake caliper compressor tool to compress the piston back into the caliper. ($15 or less at your local parts store)

Remove the caliper mounting bolts, clean and lube with a high temperature grease, and reinstall into caliper.

Install the new rotor, and brake pads onto the caliper. Make sure not to get grease onto the pads or rotor surface.

Apply a high temperature brake lube to all of the metal parts that need to slide. (Pad backing edges and caliper mount bracket)

Reinstall the caliper, bolts, and wheel.

Make sure to pump up the brake pedal several times before attempting to test drive. The new pads and rotors will need to be driven around 50 to 100 miles to set in.

We hope you found this tutorial helpful. As always, we’ll leave you with a cost breakdown of what the work would cost at an auto shop vs. doing the repair yourself.

Your cost comparison – Shop vs. Do it yourself

If you purchased the parts to repair yourself
Brake rotors $30 each(aftermarket), Pads $50 (factory original)

If you paid a repair shop
Labor time, 2 hours @ $80 per hour, plus 100% mark up on parts

Cost at a repair shop
$380 plus tax, 12 month warrantee

Cost to do it yourself
$110 plus tax, Lifetime pad warrantee

This problem can cause check engine lights to come on.

Engine surging when coming to a stop and even the possibility of stalling the engine are other symptoms as well.

Scan the check engine light to read fault codes for repair.

The throttle body on an engine needs to be clean in order to perform correctly.

How does a throttle body get dirty? Let’s start with emissions. Part of being environmentally friendly is to filter everything, especially the air that the engine breathes.

In order to positively vent the engine crankcase vapors from the engine oil, it has to be routed back into the engine through the throttle body. Traditional oils are carbon base oils. When the carbon base oil vapors vent through the throttle body, small amounts or particles of the oil attach to the inside of the housing. Oil in a varnish or solidified carbon form builds up where the throttle closes, causing a restriction in the amount of air that the engine needs when idling. Now you can see why an engine might surge or die. Here is a procedure for cleaning out the build up as a maintenance item.

Here is a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu with a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder. This vehicle has all 3 of the symptoms, engine warning light and poor idle quality with occasional stalling.

Locate the air intake system.

This is where the air comes into the engine from the air filter to the throttle body.

Unscrew the breather tube clamps.

Remove the breather tube from the throttle body.

Check the butterfly for build up.

Open and inspect the throttle body internally.

Note:

When using carburetor cleaner, make sure to wear safety glasses and work in a well ventilated area.

Caution!!

When working with carburetor cleaner, use caution around painted surfaces, plastics, and anything hot, this product is extremely flammable and can damage paint and plastics!!

Purchase a can of carburetor cleaner.

Spray the housing and use a shop rag to wipe out the buildup.

Carburetor cleaner is the only spray that will dissolve and remove the varnish. This was a very dirty housing.

Install the breather tube.

Secure the clamps.

Locate the diagnostic connector near the driver’s side foot well

Plug in an OBD II scan tool to clear the fault memory and shut off the engine light.

There could be a number of faults stored that are bogus faults, due to the uncontrollable idle on the engine. Sensors and control units are trying to compensate for a lack of air at idle by leaning out the fuel to control the engine speed.

The main reason in checking this throttle body was for surging and low idle. After cleaning the throttle body, the engine idle and driving conditions were restored.

If you paid a repair shop to perform this service you would be charged at least 1 hour labor for the check engine light, and 1 hour for the cleaning. Base an estimate on a shop labor rate at $80.00 per hour.

If you performed the repair yourself, the carburetor cleaner is around $3.00 and a roll of shop towels $2.00.

Comparison pricing

Cost at a repair shop $160.00

Cost to do it yourself $5.00

A good preventative maintenance would be to clean your throttle body every year and eliminate the possibility of seeing the check engine light for this reason.

]]> http://www.autorepairfacts.com/repairs/cleaning-a-throttle-body-simple-maintenance-to-prevent-problems/feed/ 0 http://www.autorepairfacts.com/repairs/replacing-a-cabin-filter/ http://www.autorepairfacts.com/repairs/replacing-a-cabin-filter/#comments Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:58:50 +0000 kgrubbs http://www.autorepairfacts.com/?p=356 The cabin filter in your vehicle helps to trap pollen and dirt that passes through into the inside vents.

This is the same setup that your home furnace filter does to help your breathing. Today’s vehicles try to incorporate some of the technology used in your everyday life, (like furnace filters), into your vehicle, (cabin filters).

Just like any other type of maintenance item, the cabin filter is usually tucked into the heater box somewhere. Repair manuals and owner’s manuals can show the locations and recommended intervals to replace these filters.

This vehicle is a 2000 Mercury Villager, with a step by step guide to replacing the cabin filter.

The cabin filter on this vehicle is located under the wiper cover.

Open the hood and locate the screws to remove the cover.

There should be at least 8 screws holding this plastic cover on.

Turn on the wipers and park them in the up position.

This will allow you to access the lock tab that holds the wiper arm in place. Pry the tab out ¼ inch.

Grab the passenger arm and pry up to remove from the pivot.

Be careful when removing the arm not to lose the keyway that holds the arm in place.

Then remove the driver’s side arm making sure not to hit the windshield.

Lift up the cover to access the cabin filter.

Remove or pull out of the way enough to get to the filter.
There is one more cover to remove.

Take out the 4 screws that attach the cover onto the filter.

Remove the cover and filter.

A closer look will allow you to see how dirty this filter can get.

A good guide line to follow would be to replace every year or 15,000 miles.

Install the new filter and cover.

Install the cover and wipers.

Make sure to check the blower motor operation and wipers after everything is reassembled.

Comparison pricing

Just to give you an Idea of how much you can save on replacing the cabin filter for this vehicle, here’s a comparison on the two.

If you have a repair shop install it, add 100% mark-up to the part and 1 hour shop labor to replace it at a shop labor rate of $80.00 per hour.

Cabin filter repair by doing it yourself: $40.00 for this filter.

Cabin filter repair at a repair shop: $160.00 for this repair.

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