Locate the lug nuts/bolts

Determine the socket size to use

This is a 19mm lug bolt

Use a breaker bar and socket to loosen the bolts before jacking up the vehicle.

Refer to the “tools section” for a link to see these tools.

Refer to the “how to use a Jack and stands” for the proper way to lift and support a vehicle.

The most important part about having a wheel off is the installation. Make sure to use a torque wrench when tightening a wheel.

torque wrenches

Torque wrenches are designed to properly tighten lug nuts/bolts to manufacture specifications. If not tightened correctly, you can do damage to the lugs, alloy wheels, and even possibly to the brake rotor as well.

Torque wrenches usually have a torque chart located on the side to show the range of torque this tool can provide.

This one ranges from 30-200 foot pounds of torque.

The handle turns to increase or decrease the torque to be applied.

When applying torque to the bolt being tightened, the torque wrench will click or give a pop feeling in the tool when the desired amount of torque has been reached.

Note:This alloy wheel has a torque specification of 80 foot pounds. To find your recommended torque spec., refer to your repair manual or call a local shop to find out.

Cool tools to have

Here is a tool that can help to speed up the job, or allow you to change a spare tire with ease.

A cordless battery powered Impact gun

Removal and Installation of lug nuts/bolts only!!

The wheel torque still needs to be done to prevent damage from over torque or keep you from losing of a wheel from under torque.

When jumping a vehicles battery, the reason is either that something electrical was left on and ran the battery down or the battery has electrically failed and won’t power up your vehicle. Car batteries have a combination of lead plates, water, and sulfuric acid. A chemical reaction produced when the battery is electrically charged will provide the necessary power for your vehicle’s electrical system.

When a battery runs down or becomes discharged, the sudden charge from jump starting or quick charging produces a hydrogen gas within the battery. All batteries have vents to prevent the battery gasses from building up or causing the case to swell. These vents will allow hydrogen gases to release at and around the battery. Whenever making a connection at the battery, if the jumping source is powered, sparks can occur which could ignite the gasses present creating an explosion. When following this post, make sure not to hook up the cables backwards or ground out a power source other wise severe electrical damage will occurr!!

For more battery knowledge, refer to the battery maintenance post “How to section”

To locate a pair of jumper cables, use one of the parts links and search ‘jumper cables’.
A good 20 foot pair will cost around $40, but will last a long time.

Make sure they’re long enough to reach the width of 2 vehicles. This will allow for enough cable to comfortably use.

Red is for the positive battery terminal and Black is for the Negative terminal

Make sure to separate the cable ends before making your first connection

Pull the cars close to each other and open the hoods
Make sure the dead car has the key off and the good car is running with the head lights on

Make the first connection the positive terminal on the running vehicle (look for a red cable and/or a + mark on the battery)

Make the second connection the negative terminal on the running vehicle (look for a black cable and/or a – mark on the battery)

Note:Make sure the jumper cables are routed away from any moving parts such as belts or fan blades

Make the third connection on the dead car positive terminal,(look for the red cable and/or + mark on the battery)

The fourth connection is the most important, ground it away from the battery

New cars typically have under hood positive and negative connection points
Remember the opening text about not creating sparks to prevent a possible explosion. Don’t go against the rules!!
It’s a safety thing!!!

Once the cables are connected, attempt to start the dead car. If the attempt does not start or cranks slow, wait for a minute or two and try again.

When started, remove the jumper cables in the reverse order. Remove starting with the jumped car ground 1st, positive 2nd, the good battery ground 3rd, and the positive 4th.

A better way to jump and a nice tool to have is a jump box.

Use one of the parts links and search ‘battery jump box’ they range from $45-$60

Most jump boxes fully charged have an indicator light built in to show the state of charge.

A nice feature is a cut off switch. Hooking up before turning on will eliminate any unexpected sparking.

Just like using jumper cables, the box is the reserve battery source and only needs to be connected to the dead car.

Some jump boxes have ends that can easily connect to a side post battery as well as a top post battery.

Make the first connection the positive terminal

Make the second connection the ground

Position the jump box where it won’t interfere with anything under the hood

Flip the power switch

Start the car

Now that’s much easier. For knowledge on maintaining and cleaning your battery

refer to the battery maintenance post “How to section”

With the thought of making a phone call to AAA, or limping your car to the nearest Wal-mart to have a tire repaired or replaced, why would anyone worry with changing a spare? Here are a few reasons why.

When doing a routine maintenance inspection or getting prepared for a trip, it would always be a good idea to check the spare tire for air and make sure the jack and tools are there and functioning correctly. Just as a safety precaution in case you break down, and prevent you from getting stranded.

This vehicle is a 1998 Volvo V-70

If possible, locate the vehicle owner’s manual to find and learn about the spare tire, jack and tools that are provided from the manufacture for your vehicle.

If your vehicle’s manual is gone, find a replacement owner’s manual at factory auto manuals

Remove the spare and tools for use.

This is also an opportunity to check and adjust the air pressure.

Note: Refer to the “How to check and adjust tire pressures section”

Spare tires also have a speed rating, this one is 50 mph.

This is the lug wrench used for removing the lug bolts or nuts when taking the wheel off.

Always make sure to loosen, (but do not remove) the lugs before jacking up the vehicle.

By following the manual, you can know how to use the jack and locate the jack points.

The most important thing to remember when using a car jack is to use only on a flat level surface.

Make sure the jack is securely placed between the frame and ground, and raise the vehicle enough to remove the wheel.

With the vehicle raised, remove the lug bolts and wheel.

Be very cautious when working with a vehicle supported by a jack. Do not put yourself under or near any part of the vehicle that hurt you if it was to fall off of the jack!!

Install the spare and lug bolts.

Snug the lugs, lower the jack, and tighten the lugs as tight as possible with the supplied lug wrench.

Tighten the lugs in a star pattern to allow the wheel to fit securely against the hub.

Reassemble the spare and jack when done.

Making sure the spare and tools are in good working order is a great preventative maintenance to do.

Note: Manual illustrations from Volvo

Check your car jack

Make sure the jack is fully functional (All wheels free to roll, handle free to turn, and hydraulic pump raises and lowers without leaks) and will support the weight limit on the jack label. To double check this information you will need to consult your vehicle manual to find the weight of your vehicle. Usually this is only a problem when you are using a jack that did not come with your car.

Note: The most important thing to remember is safety first.

Always put something, like a block of wood or a brick, behind the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling when jacking it up. Also, never crawl under a vehicle only supported by a jack. Make sure jack stands are used and the vehicle is on level ground.

Jacking up your car

Roll the jack into position for raising a vehicle and find a section of the frame to put the jack plate on. An acceptable portion of the frame is usually at least 4″ thick and a part of the main car frame. Hopefully this is easy to determine, it is slightly different on each car. Make sure not to jack up the car using a fiberglass or plastic portion of your vehicle.

Pump the handle of the jack up to the frame and slowly raise the vehicle.

Take the jack stand and place under the vehicle on a section of the frame to be supported.

Lower the weight of the vehicle onto the stand so the vehicle is not supported by the jack. Most people doing home auto repairs don’t know this, but using a jack stand to support the weight of the car is a safer alternative than supporting your vehicle with the jack.

Once the vehicle is secure, you can maneuver around under the vehicle on a creeper to access whatever you need. If you don’t have a creeper, you can use something similar that you can lay on to slide under your car, even if it is something home made.

Even though this illustration only shows one jack stand, you can repeat the procedure on all 4 corners of the vehicle if you need full access underneath.

Pricing

Shop around when looking to purchase a jack, stands, and a creeper. I find that one of the best places to find deals is at the Sears website. In this case, all you need to do is enter a search of ‘floor jack’ and locate the a package that includes 3 ton jack with 2 jack stands and a padded creeper for $120.00 on sale. Usually, the regular total pricing on these items is $150.00, a modest savings of $30.